Archive for May, 2010

Hong Kong’s momentous referendum: the aftermath

Monday, May 17th, 2010

Like Chief Executive Donald Tsang, I decided not to vote in yesterday’s by-election/de facto referendum in view of its unique nature – specifically that it was being held on exactly the same day that I was due, with a little effort, to attain Genius Pixie level in the addictive pastime known as Flood It. To the surprise of no-one, 83% of Hong Kong’s voters stayed away from the polls. For every person who abstained on principle, like Sir Bow-Tie, many more stayed away because they couldn’t see the point in turning up for a one-horse race.

More than a few also resented the fact that, in each constituency, the ‘horse’ concerned had been solely responsible for holding the race, leaving the whole event looking like an exercise in self-indulgence. This was not just because Beijing pulled the plug on a contest by ordering its supporters not to run. It was also the fault of the pro-democrats taking part for their insistence on framing the non-clash in their usual rarified, abstract and idealistic rhetoric.

For example, the pro-democrats urged us to cast our ballot to somehow pressure Hong Kong/PRC officials to define what they mean by ‘universal suffrage’. This is begging the question; Beijing cannot and will not offer a definition because to do so would implicitly accept the right of the people to peacefully change their government if they choose. It won’t happen. So long as China is under the rule of a Communist or any other one-party system, any election in Hong Kong must and will be rigged. Asking Beijing to describe how it will not rig our elections is cretinous.

As, sadly, is the pro-democrats’ whole strategy of demanding that a dream be turned into a reality, complete with timetable and legally watertight fine print. Far better to start with the reality and try to turn it into something better and attainable.

Hong Kong is currently run by a little group of out-of-depth bureaucrats who allow a cabal of tycoons to rip off consumers and hog opportunities and private and public wealth. If the government’s political reform package for 2012 is passed, we end up with exactly the same system. This should be the loudly and clearly and frequently proclaimed reason why the pro-democrats will vote to veto the package. It could be a spicy message, complete with names of officials, developer buddies and wasteful projects, and vivid examples of the harm done to ordinary people’s lives through the bad housing, schools and hospitals that result. The pro-democrats have parliamentary privilege, right? Use it.

But no: they are too absorbed in their noble fight for pure righteousness in the form of democracy in our small patch of totalitarian state. Their arguments are impeccably logical but irrelevant; the enemy they think they are struggling against is barely aware they exist. As yesterday showed, they perceive both success and (even better) a dash of martyrdom where the rest of us see a time-waster intruding into the important things in life, like making Genius Pixie. You have to wonder whose side they are really on.

Update from Hemlock

Friday, May 14th, 2010

Dawn, and the day’s first dozy and dolorous commuters arrive in the central business district of Asia’s leading international financial centre. They are watched discreetly by wild American friend Odell in his upholstered little lair near the window in the IFC Mall branch of Pacific Coffee. The perv-voyeur has to be careful as he monitors the passing parade of pert secretaries and marketing floozies in their shiny heels, black stockings and tight skirts, for his Thai wife Mee is at his side. Apart from furtive glances during occasional sips of his air-dried durian and organic hibiscus mocha, he pretends to read the newspaper. Or even reads it.

“Wow… Oh my god… Jeez, Hem, look at this here. This is it!” He thrusts page two of the South China Morning Post’s City section in my face, leans towards me and starts whispering. “Doncha think that a certain, uh, brown person sitting next to me who could, ya know, bring a bit more money in, might, um…be interested in this?”

He has seen an ad in the personal announcements section:

“What, exactly, are you getting at?” I ask after reading it.

A loud gurgling noise announces that Mee has finished the Coke she brought in from McDonalds. She burps politely, declares, “I go see cake,” and walks over to the pastries counter.

“It’s obvious,” Odell tells me and starts to describe how his underemployed wife could apply to work as a sort of trophy masseuse/nurse/maid to what he envisions as a slightly obscure version of centenarian billionaire Sir Run-Run Shaw. “The old guy’s obviously lonely and freakin’ loaded right?”

“And,” – I remind him, knowing full well I shouldn’t – “he probably doesn’t have any family or, um, heirs.”

Odell’s eyes widen.

“But let’s be realistic,” I hasten to add. “Look what it says here: ‘refined, educated, single Chinese classy lady’. Let’s go over those one by one, shall we?”

“Naaah.” Odell waves me aside. “The old guy don’t care about that. Mee’s grandfather was Chinese – local rice miller. She’s kinda classy. In her own way.”

I hold my tongue. I’m not sure how she came to be here in the Big Lychee. I do know that many years back she paid a police constable with serious gambling debts to officially marry-then-divorce her, thus providing her with a Hong Kong ID card, which in turn led Odell to marry her after he was expelled from the Mormons for lapsing disastrously from missionary work in Wanchai into alcohol and women.

Mee returns with a chocolate croissant on a paper plate. “Hey, monkey ass!” she demands. “Why you look at girls walking past again?”

Odell sits her down. “No I’m not looking at the girls,” he reassures her. “Just their clothes. The dark blazers, the white blouses, the smart black shoes.” He takes her hand. “How’d you like it if, um, after work today, we go and get you some really nice formal stuff like that, huh? Maybe some pearls?”

The Hub That Dare Not Speak Its Name

Thursday, May 13th, 2010

What is Forbes magazine for? For most people, it’s something to flick through while waiting to see the dentist. Its breezy, glossy Cosmo-style vacuity (Ten Tips for Spring Cleaning Your Career) triggers an instant, Zen-like clearance of thoughts from the brain, while the never-ending lists of top billionaires and zippy tech start-ups provide that all-important inner numbness (mesmerize yourself with America’s Most Popular Car Colors and a root canal is nothing).

Compared with his closet-gay/biker/socialite father Malcolm of Capitalist Tool Boeing 727 fame, proprietor Steve Forbes perhaps seems a little colourless. His editorial stance is undoubting, inherited-wealth conservative. Rather than take the publication to court, Singapore’s Lee Kuan Yew writes an opinion column for it. Immaculately coiffured Indian businessmen you’ve never heard of get star treatment – in the Asian edition at least – while the likes of Gordon G Chang monitor China’s coming demise.

Coverage of the Big Lychee is usually pretty thin, consisting of rankings of tycoons and glowing reports of obscure European luxury brands setting up shop in the city. So a non-celebrity article on one of our less renowned economic sectors raises an eyebrow. Especially when it is titled Why Hong Kong is China’s New Tech Hub.

For many right-thinking people, the idea that this city can be a tech (as in research) hub is laughable – it’s about as likely as the place becoming a sporting powerhouse, a creative and cultural centre or a green, zero-emissions paradise. And, because our government has indeed on occasions announced plans to miraculously turn us into Asia’s tech (sports/creative/cultural/green) capital, the idea is also rather distasteful, even disturbing. Tung Chee-hwa was right? Economic planning by bureaucrats works?

Looking through the piece, it seems we are talking about a small but real Hong Kong success story. This is not about hundreds of geeky code-writers in Beijing patching together Microsoft’s latest user-loathing, giant hairball of an Office upgrade. Nor is it about dozens of fresh graduates in Shenzhen reverse-engineering and improving gizmos that the original inventors still haven’t finished. It’s about pairs and threes of local whiz-kids working out ways to make – this is key – a fast buck from (I would guess) silly-but-clever apps for iPhones and the like.

So we can breathe a sigh of relief. Grandiose government visions, science parks and multi-billion dollar funds have had nothing to do with it. It’s a bunch of spiky-haired kids who are too shy to be property agents devising inane and profitable downloads for Asia’s millions of easily amused mobile device users.

The Forbes agenda is to underline how the evil Reds on the Mainland are at a disadvantage compared with the freedom-loving, market-oriented Hongkongers. And the list (Eight Ways You Can Wipe the Floor with the Commies in their own Backyard) looks pretty impressive. Mainland China is poor, censored, monopolized, bureaucratic, state-run and hates foreigners; Hong Kong, on the other hand, is just seriously cool. Perfectly valid points, no doubt.

And then Forbes hits an interesting little nail on the head: the Big Lychee’s officials don’t draw attention to these advantages. Out of fearful, obsequious pragmatism (“deference”) they don’t advertise Hong Kong as the bit of China where there is no censorship, thus no persecution for resisting censorship, no favouritism for state companies, no weird legal decisions to undercut foreigners, plus all the YouTube and Facebook you could ever want, and you can incorporate in a day. Unlike you-know-where.

Our local leaders are silent on this. They just sit there awkwardly, too patriotic to say why we’re better, preferring instead to unnerve us all with fatalistic blather about how our only chance is integration and cooperation and partnership, and getting excited only at the prospect of a mention in the next Five Year Plan.

Not a totally new point (it’s all part of the post-colonial pre-emptive cringe), but interesting enough to keep me away from Forbes next time I am in the dentist’s waiting room.

Armageddon Mayhem to Follow Tung Chung Property Price Collapse Disaster Massacre

Wednesday, May 12th, 2010

As the last howls of anguish about unaffordable housing echo through Hong Kong’s avenues and alleyways, a new and contrasting chorus of screeching and wailing rises to warn the city of an even greater peril: property prices that are too low. The dread prospect of the middle class being able to purchase a home and still have enough cash left over for food follows the dismal failure of our leading real estate company, the Lands Department, to auction a scrap of reclamation out at Tung Chung for the sort of bubble-about-to-burst sum that seemed inevitable a few weeks back.

Yesterday’s land auction. The government will invest the revenue raised in continued research and training to perfect the you-wouldn’t-believe-how-important-we-are looks on the faces of Lands Department pen-pushers.

The developer that won the auction, privately held Nan Fung – accustomed to making do with inferior lots the big boys don’t want – had to bid against itself to meet the reserve price. The lack of interest shown by Cheung Kong, Sun Hung Kai and the other cartel leaders is probably due to weakening market sentiment and upcoming auctions for bigger and better locations. But the Standard’s fictitious columnist Mary Ma floats the possibility that the barons are boycotting government land sales to protest new rules that make it slightly harder for them to rip off people deluded or desperate enough to buy their nasty overpriced rabbit hutches.

They have done this before; it was back in the old days when the Hong Kong government measured its total reserves in billions rather than trillions and genuinely needed the flow of revenue from land sales. The developers have less clout these days (not that officials realize it). So the ‘Mary Ma’ theory, we can safely assume, is an attempt by the Sing Tao Group’s proprietor to help out his fellow tycoons/advertisers by starting a lame rumour: if this wanton persecution of innocent property moguls continues, the righteous wrath of the cartel shall be visited upon the government’s fiscal well-being for this and for 10 generations to come.

According to the Business Week article, the auction price of HK$2,426 a square foot translates into apartments going for HK$4,500 a square foot. This is 7% above current home prices in the far-flung pollution trap that is Tung Chung – hence the panicky, wrist-slashing, end-of-civilization tone of the Standard’s bed-wetting reporters in their story about the seller who had to trim his asking price from HK$2.8mn to HK$2.65mn.  “Small concrete box beneath mosquito-infested hills out near airport worth less than gullible nonentity thought! Read all about it!” The horror.

To quote today’s guest artiste, singing some of the most erudite lines ever composed on the subject of Hong Kong’s property-scam pyramid scheme:

…everybody’s wheeling
everybody’s stealing
all the low are living high.
Every city’s got em
can we ever stop em
some of us are gonna try.

Or then again maybe not.

Mental Health Crisis: Five More Cases Found

Tuesday, May 11th, 2010

Two of the five candidates for Hong Kong Island in next Sunday’s exciting Legislative Council by-election have sent me material begging for my vote. They are Spencer Tai Cheuk Yin of the Kuomintang, no less, and Tanya Chan of the Civic Party. Both want democracy and the abolition of functional constituencies; Tai also wants help for Hong Kong students in Taiwan and is proud to uphold Sun Yat-sen’s Three Principles of the People (which, as we all recall, are nationalism, democracy and people’s livelihood).

Tanya is the candidate everyone has heard of, not least because she caused the by-election in the first place by resigning her Legco seat along with fellow pro-democrats in the other four constituencies.

It probably seemed like a good idea at the time. The pro-democrats hoped to highlight public support for universal suffrage by forcing a city-wide poll that could serve as a de-facto referendum. But the exercise has turned into an embarrassment. Not only did the Democratic Party refuse to take part but the entire opposition are boycotting the by-election after being scared off in no uncertain terms by Beijing, whose officials, incapable of seeing the funny side of a make-believe plebiscite, went into one of those mouth-frothing fits we see all too few of these days.

A referendum is unconstitutional, they ranted, even though (or because, according to their logic) the Basic Law makes no mention of such a device. Pro-Beijing supporters dutifully and loudly echoed this nonsense, while enjoying – as indeed we all did – the sight of government officials awkwardly defying their Mainland masters by obeying the law and organizing the by-election. To make up for it, Chief Executive Donald Tsang will, though he doesn’t want to say it openly, abstain from voting in what he declares to be an unnecessary and wasteful poll. Long accustomed to urging participation to give our rigged elections a stamp of legitimacy, the government is this time implicitly discouraging us.

Who would Donald cast his ballot for anyway?

Apart from the used-car-salesman-like KMT guy and Tanya – whose sullen, leaflet-distributing presence next to the Mid-Levels Escalator is brightening up our mornings so much this week – there are three choices.

The first, pretty-boy student Leung Wing-ho, is one of the young idealistic activists who decided to run in the by-elections so the CP and LSD candidates would be sure of having opponents. (Otherwise, candidates would be returned automatically, and you wouldn’t have the all-important ‘referendum’ effect. Perhaps the idea was that you would vote Tanya for a ‘yes to democracy’ and Leung for a ‘no’, though of course he is as pro-universal suffrage as she is really. The latest theory seems to be that simply turning up and voting is a ‘yes’, though some Beijing loyalists unreceptive to the ‘boycott’ directive are vowing to spoil their ballot papers. The sheer problem of how we are supposed to read the results of these by-elections is in itself a good reason to stay in bed on Sunday.)

The candidate with the inauspicious number 4 is one Wong Hing, representing the grumpier end of the independent faction. We were supposed to have ‘Bus Uncle’ Roger Chan running on Hong Kong Island, but he screwed up his nomination, and the chance of a hint of sanity in the campaign was tragically lost.

That leaves us with Lee Chun-hung, who it seems was catapulted into politics by the treatment of a lady friend who was fired from the Vocational Training Council. The lady friend is his campaign manager, and her Indonesian maid is helping out too. Any money left over from the campaign fund-raising drive will go to Asian Tsunami orphans. There are eight million stories in the naked city, and this one is about par for the course but comes with a more-colourful-than-average website.

The government will really, really hate it if people vote. Other than that, the only reason I can find for traipsing off to the polling station on Sunday is to be able to say in years to come that I once voted Kuomintang. A mild thrill, at best.

Mental Health Crisis: Space Cadets to the Rescue

Monday, May 10th, 2010

According to the South China Morning Post, Hong Kong public hospitals’ 200-300 psychiatrists can spend only five to 10 minutes in consultation with each of their annual total of 150,000 new patients. Perhaps we should be grateful that mentally ill people run amok and chop up passers-by with meat cleavers only once every few months or so. This is, after all, a flow of 410 newly diseased minds per 24 hours – though perhaps the most amazing thing is that 6,999,590 of us stay sane every day.

As usual, the latest such incident, in which two people were killed and three seriously wounded, prompts hand-wringing and complaints. Residents of the public housing estate concerned are angrily demanding that schizophrenic and similarly afflicted neighbours be moved somewhere else. They don’t say where. I would suggest Discovery Bay, which for several decades now has housed thousands of people who have quietly gone mad, far away from the daily lives and thoughts of the rest of the population. Activists and do-gooders meanwhile demand that the government allocate more resources; it takes one year, apparently, for someone suffering from depression to have their first appointment with a specialist.

Our officials are made of sterner stuff. The SCMP reports that Permanent Secretary for Labour and Welfare Paul Tang says that such incidents are inevitable and “We have already increased the support for the mentally ill over the past several years.” In short, it’s no big deal, and anyway these evil, dangerous lunatics have too much already.

One possible solution, given that sorting out the deranged on a case-by-case basis is such a drag, is to gather them all up and launch them into outer space.

Which brings us rather neatly to the government’s call for high school students to volunteer for Young Astronaut Training Camp. The lucky youthful Hongkongers, hand-picked from the millions who are independent, extrovert, confident and proficient in Putonghua, will be sent to the Xichang Satellite Launch Centre to undergo such enjoyable experiences as blood redistribution adaptability training – otherwise known as being strapped to a chair upside-down.

The exercise is being run by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department (ultimate boss: imprisoned student Communist activist and now Home Affairs Secretary Tsang Tak-sing) in the shape of the Space Museum – the nearest we have to NASA. The Chinese General Chamber of Commerce and The Hong Kong Institute for Promotion of Chinese Culture are also involved. The CGCC, which organizes frequent and unforgettably exciting pro-motherland cocktail gatherings as well as such events as anti-Falun Gong exhibitions, is presumably chipping in some money. The HKIPCC, a group for arty types from academia and the media, with friends in government and the intellectual wing of the Democratic Alliance for the Betterment of Hong Kong, will perhaps help out with the non-astronomical part of the syllabus.

In short, this is part of that large-scale effort to introduce harmonized and correct standards of mental health across the community: the United Front. The students will return in tiptop condition, not only in adaptability of blood redistribution, but in the adaptability of their fresh young minds, untainted by the colonial-era thinking that make some older Hong Kong people unhinged, violent time-bombs – rampaging around challenging the Communist Party with meat cleavers in their insane quest for democracy.

Donald, desperate, tries ‘please’

Friday, May 7th, 2010

The Hong Kong government plumbs new depths of spiritlessness today with a plaintive and almost childlike appeal on its news website to whoever happens to pass by: ‘Please support the 2012 constitutional package’. As in ‘Please mister, will you help get my pet kitten down from the tree?’

Chief Executive Donald Tsang’s meek administration was painted into a corner by Beijing on the issue of political reform. When Donald first took over in 2005, much of the population were rejoicing at the replacement of the tragic Tung Chee-hwa with a smart British-trained local boy, and the traditional pro-Beijing patriots were aghast at the appointment of this colonial running dog to the top position. Sir Bow-Tie hubristically declared that he would fix political reform once and for all.

Then he presumably had a behind-the-scenes run-in with reality: it wasn’t going to be up to him. The electoral arrangements he proposed in late 2005 for 2008 with contrived aplomb represented a minimal, at best, step forward. The defeat of that package by the pro-democrats was a massive humiliation for Donald. He is now obediently submitting the package for a second time, and, without trying to sound at all apologetic about it, explaining in effect that this is the best he can do; the roadmap we used to hear so much about was never really an option.

A second rejection would seal his place, to the extent a Big Lychee Chief Executive has one, in the history books. Here lies the man who tried, twice, to get an insubstantial and barely even cosmetic change to the city’s political structure through a rigged legislature in the midst of widespread public indifference – and failed. Given his lack of other achievements (health care finance, a sales tax, pollution, etc), he will go down as an even bigger waste of space than old Tung.

In the course of grasping firm control of constitutional development in Hong Kong, Beijing too painted itself into something of a corner. Basic Law ‘interpretations’ and ambiguous but menacing utterances by Central People’s Government emissaries may have been intended to dampen expectations and enthusiasm for democracy, but if anything they increased polarization and made things worse. If those grim officials could turn the clock back, they would probably be more open about what they mean by ‘universal suffrage’ and more relaxed about developing the rigged system they have in mind but no-one openly talks about. But they can never be wrong.

So failure will be Hong Kong’s fault entirely, for not having a consensus – and for that, the Chief Executive must accept responsibility, uncomplainingly. Barred by his masters from offering anything of any substance, Donald has no choice but to grovel pathetically in a nothing-to-lose attempt to avoid a second burning slap in the face and two years’ inglorious lame-duck-hood.

Hemlock reports from equatorial parts (3)

Thursday, May 6th, 2010

A few random and hasty observations to summarize Jakarta succinctly in a brief, condensed nutshell…

1.  The restaurants don’t have smoking areas – they are smoking areas. One exception: one of those places selling chocolate mousse with shaved cheese, where customers may smoke indoors (in the air-conditioning) but not outside on the sweaty veranda.

2.  You can ignore seat belts in cars but must by law sport a big shiny crash helmet if you are one of the teeming billions on mopeds weaving around the clogged-up traffic like corpuscles streaming through capillaries. The logical explanation for this is that, since only motorbikes attain any real speed, only their users need protection. Logical and thus, of course, wrong. My sordid and cynical assumption was that maybe the helmet industry is monopolized by someone important’s niece, but I am assured that such shenanigans are a thing of the past in Indonesia these days. The real reason, I am told – and it’s so absurd it must be true – is that the government made expensive protective headwear compulsory in an effort to curb the growth in motorbike numbers after cut-price installment payment plans for the locally assembled mopeds proved overly successful. That is, the helmets are less affordable than the bikes and thus a form of tax. (It doesn’t seem to be working.)

3.  Not only does the Sari Pan Pacific’s Irish bar charge HK$90 for a local beer, the business centre demands 39 US cents a minute to access the Internet. Good thing the hotel doesn’t sell crash helmets. However, it’s nothing personal: step outside and wander around, and going on-line is pricy everywhere. Broadband in Indonesia is a duopoly, and introducing competition – according to a business magazine – would be fraught with complications. Nothing to do with important people’s nieces, presumably.

4.  Although the redundant ‘visa’ is issued on arrival for US$25 without even the slightest check to see whether you pose any threat to national well-being, the immigration officer who stamps your passport when you leave asks you the reason for your visit.

6. I am out of touch. Does Greece and/or the Euro still exist?

5.  Condemned to Cathay Pacific economy class on the flight back, I finally get to examine the new seats that caused such anguish and mouth-frothing when they were launched. For years, airlines have attempted to market cattle class – human history’s cheapest-ever method of transport – as something semi-luxurious. They are finally learning to be honest. Rather than have backs that recline, these new seats have bottoms that slide forward. It is horribly uncomfortable and long overdue. Never again will innocent, unassuming passengers capable of sitting upright have to put up with the selfish bore in front leaning right back so his headrest sticks into their face and traps them. Now all the airline needs to do is train the cabin crew to explain that business class is for leaning back, and economy class is for leaving the passenger behind you with a bit of space – the one thing they have a right to expect when paying less than a dollar a mile to travel at not much less than the speed of sound.


Hemlock reports from equatorial parts (2)

Wednesday, May 5th, 2010

Once tough, manly and fearless, ever-prepared to send its young men to Gallipoli, North Africa, Vietnam and Iraq, the Australian Government loses its grip and issues the following advice to its citizens:

We advise you to reconsider your need to travel to Indonesia at this time due to the very high threat of terrorist attack … On 17 July 2009, terrorists detonated bombs at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel and the JW Marriott Hotel in Jakarta. Australians were among those killed and injured…

There is a possibility of further terrorist attacks in Jakarta … Terrorists have previously attacked or planned to attack places where Westerners gather including nightclubs, bars, restaurants, hotels and airports … We continue to receive credible information that terrorists could be planning attacks in Indonesia…

The WHO has confirmed human deaths from avian influenza in Indonesia … rabies is present … Malaria (including chloroquine-resistant strains) is prevalent … Dengue fever occurs … Outbreaks of chikungunya have been reported … Japanese encephalitis and filariasis are also present…

Petty crime is common … Violence is sometimes used. Thieves on motorcycles … Bag snatching … Thefts from cars stopped at traffic lights … Credit card and ATM fraud … Foreigners have died after consuming brand name alcohol or local spirits adulterated with harmful substances … Cases of robbery and temporary confinement in taxis have been reported…boil all drinking water or drink bottled water, and avoid ice cubes and uncooked food … Avoid temporary ‘black henna’ tattoos…

The alert goes on to examine in great detail the nightmarish driving, unsafe aircraft and perhaps the most horrifying potential threat to antipodean visitors to Indonesia: the dastardly volcanoes (of which, it must be said, the country has a generous supply). Thankfully, I am not Australian and therefore unaffected.

What the wimp Foreign Affairs officials in Canberra could mention, if they wanted to temper their breathlessly hysterical backside-covering with a little level-headed calm, is that precious foreigners can at least be assured of a safe haven at the Museum Nasional in Jakarta. This will also cause surprisingly little damage to their wealth, because at Rp750 (64 HK cents, or just under one US dime), the admission ticket must be the cheapest thing in Jakarta. Not even the really down-market, costs-less-than-a-beer apartments are in this price bracket.

Set in a purpose-built 19th-Century colonial building, the Museum Nasional doesn’t just display artifacts from the past – it is from the past. The labels on the exhibits are jaw-droppingly uninformative in any language. Anything not in a glass case may be touched. It looks dusty and fusty, even if strictly speaking it isn’t, or at least not much. Children come because they are forced to and hate it. (Although they seem boisterous and cheerful, many of them are, sadly, suffering from the delirious advanced stages of chikungunya. They are miserable really.)

The curators don’t reach out, or try to connect or be relevant or part of the community. The essential message is: if you can’t tell Hindu from Buddhist statuary or don’t know a bit about Asian trade patterns during the times when Ming and Qing dynasty ceramics turned up here, you can just go away.

Gamelan, puppets, masks, costumes and Chinese pottery, as well as Persian, Indian and Arab imports attest to a thriving and rich creative and commercial culture going back well over 1,000 years. And then you see the necklace made of human teeth to remind us that the modern Javanese Empire, like its Han Chinese counterpart, has taken into its embrace regions where we’re not in Kansas any more – in this case, jungles far to the west full of stone-age cannibals, though obviously we don’t call them that. As in Shanghai, Tibet, Beijing and Xinjiang, every regional and ethnic group has its own name and is a happy member of the family.

I love this place. No IMAX cinema, no simulator experience, no multimedia, no gift shop with plastic kit dinosaurs that glow in the dark. No political correctness, no revisionism. Not an interactive, inspiring, environmentalist or ‘fun’ exhibit in sight.

A few stuffed orangutans would be good. Also maybe a big, grainy, blown-up black-and-white 1920s photo showing henna-covered, filariasis-addled Papuan cavemen tucking into a freshly fricasseed, Melbourne-based explorer. Otherwise, what can I say? This is a museum that should be in a museum.

Hemlock reports from equatorial parts (1)

Tuesday, May 4th, 2010

Some describe Jakarta as the city of tropical charm and Javanese hospitality; others call it the warm, throbbing heart of the island of paradise. I call it the place that’s like Manila except the police cars don’t have doors missing.

My trip gets off to a good start when, checking in here at the hotel, I casually leave a message with the girl at reception for two remote members of the Hemlock clan who are due in any minute from Yogyakarta. “Hi,” the note says, “In the bar on your left – H.” Tiny, bespectacled, coffee-coloured women with jet-black hair, scarlet lipstick and slightly other-worldly pouts hum and buzz about their business among the air-conditioned marble, carpets and gilt tables and chairs. Outside, beyond the plate glass and the palm trees, the traffic silently crawls through the thick kretak-, urine- and diesel-scented heat.

But reality intrudes into this great International Man of Mystery scenario when, after a joyful reunion, we find ourselves examining with un-Bond-like perturbation the prices in Flanagan’s, the Irish pub in the lobby. The last time I was in Indonesia was in 1998, just after the pogrom that left a thousand dead, Chinatown smouldering and 15,000 Rupiah to one US Dollar. The exchange rate is now half that, which works out at Rp1,000 to HK$1, and one (not very) large Bintang in this fake Hibernian drinking hole is Rp75,000 plus 10% plus 11%. That’s HK$90. A greater outrage than even Lan Kwai Fong or Lee Kuan Yew would ever inflict on thirsty innocents. But what do you expect in a country where the minute you land they charge you US$25 for a no-questions-asked ‘visa on arrival’? No wonder only the most desperate and hopeless Westerners live here typically (it is said) under-achieving financial types condemned to career death by a vindictive head office.

The distant Hemlocks flew in two weeks ago for the wedding of a glamorous Eurasian model cousin to the scion of a seriously wealthy local family. It was a two-day, 2,000-guest affair in which the groom arrived with a police escort to keep the paparazzi at bay and the bride changed costume and gold headdress every couple of hours. Nothing to do with me. Or that’s what I thought. However, as we leave the bar, a small but elegant woman strolls past the sniffer dogs, metal detectors, bag checkers and doormen and enters the hotel accompanied by her two taller and lighter-skinned daughters – the newly-wed and her sister.

Much effusive hugging and distasteful, French-style cheek-pressing ensue, even of the step-nephew-twice-removed-in-law from Hong Kong. We are bundled into transportation with curtains drawn and driven through the choking streets to inspect the happy couple’s prized wedding present, a luxury apartment near the (yes we have a) stock exchange.

After coming through the foyer – decor possibly inspired by the Albania Expo pavilion – and up in the private elevator, we find the love nest full of unpacked furniture and matching gifts. The new couple will move in after some renovations, like a new floor. It has a good view of the usual low-rise expanse, sleepy old government offices and half-finished towers you get around central business districts in unsuccessful economies. The vital statistics: 1,700 sq ft, three bedrooms, nice big open-plan kitchen adjoining lounge, punishment cell with squat toilet for the maid out the back. The answer to your question is Rp5 billion. Knock the three zeros off, and you suddenly realize it might, at a stretch, get you a faded 800-sq ft semi-hovel within walking distance of Shatin station.

We enjoy a pleasant stroll around the pool, the gym/spa/sauna, the library (golf magazines, no books), the kids’ playroom, something called the teens’ hang-out and the barbecue area. Apart from a few attendants there is no-one to be seen. The mother explains it to me. “Indonesians don’t like the sun, so they don’t swim. And they don’t like barbecues because you have to do it yourself. They like to be served.” She grins. She then adds that most of the units are bought as investments, and the owners only drop in from time to time, maybe for an afternoon at the weekend. The groom’s family all have one each.

The new residential block has a private tunnel connecting it to the gleaming mall/office complex across the road. But we decide to slum it and walk over. A security guard strides out ahead of us on the black-and-white striped pedestrian crossing and tries to get vehicles to stop and give us right of way, with partial success. In the deli-supermarket, 100 grams of French cheese costs a day’s wages for the average staff.

One of those coconut-and-pandan things

The matriarch holds court

After dinner, we go our separate ways. Across from the hotel, I decide to stock up my room’s ruinous and, anyway, under-provisioned mini-bar at a grimy local supermarket. As I pay one of the hijab-wearing checkout ladies for my (Rp13,500 a can) six-pack of Ankor beer, the theme from Exodus starts playing over the PA.